Postcards to Rick Steves |
BACKGROUND
Beaune is a town that revolves around wine. Its town center is located within the medieval walls that circle around it. Within the walls you will discover a few worthwhile monuments to visit, plus plenty of restaurants and shopping to keep food and wine fans happy. An easy stroll or bike ride outside the walls will take you right into the vineyards. Beaune also hosts an amazing Saturday market. Beaune reflects prosperity; indeed its history shows how the monks perfected the wine and cheese while the dukes cultivated the wealth.
TOUR HIGHLIGHTS
~We arrive in Beaune to the cute Burgundian Hotel des Remparts, our home for two nights. We are warmly welcomed by the Epailly family, who have welcomed Rick Steves guests for many years! We gather in the peaceful courtyard to receive our keys (attached, naturally, to miniature wine bottles) and also to a surprise! The Epailly's greet us with a glass of wine to celebrate our Independence Day (it is the 4th of July) and to thank our country for helping the French on D-Day 70 years ago. Thank you, Rick. Our hotel is perfectly French, centrally located, and family-run... and even better, through meeting people we realize how important travel is to break down barriers and embrace other cultures.
Alas, one part of a Rick Steves tour you may not be able to escape is the stairs. 52 of them, in my case... steep, narrow and winding, to the top floor and my room, named after Mersault. Being 6-feet tall, it is hard to stand up straight in many parts of this room, but that's part of the charm... and it helps me work off a lot of the food I'll be eating. ~After free time for lunch, we take a quick orientation walk of the town before an informative tour of Hotel Dieu, Beaune's medieval charity hospital that played a key role during the Hundred Years' War and subsequent plague (the Black Death). The interior courtyards are characterized by the colorful tiled roof (meant to display honor), while the exterior are plain and solemn. We tour various rooms, the biggest of which is the Paupers' Ward. Patients could experience Mass at the front chapel from their beds. The statue of a bound Christ above the door shows them that He suffered just as they were and is able to empathize with their pain. This was indeed a hospice; people came here to die. The smaller St. Hugue Ward is for wealthier patients, notice how the beds are bigger. The paintings reflect hope (the wealthy could afford insurance and were better likely to survive). The tour continues through the St. Nicolas (surgery and medical) Room, kitchen, and pharmacy, before culminating at Roger van der Weyden's Last Judgment painting. Here Christ presides over Judgment Day; the trumpets sound, and the damned are led into hell while believers head to Heaven. The painting is rich in detail (Christ's expressionless face, the agony on the sinners' faces, the pearly gates and the flames of hell); a rigged magnifying glass allows guests to study the details and three-haired brushstrokes better. Daniela gives a passionate description of the painting, so passionate, in fact, that she commands the entire room and has them all listening in. See photos of Hotel Dieu to the right. ~A classic Burgundian dinner together! We enjoy a choice of escargots or poached eggs in red wine; beef Burgundy; and a crunchy chocolate cake. See the Food & Wine section for mouth-watering photos. ~Market Day on Saturday morning! A colorful display of fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, nuts, mustards, clothes, books and much, much more! A treat to the eyes and palate, and a chance to pick up some goodies and souvenirs, and to connect with locals! You'll find photos to the right. ~A scenic drive into the the stunningly beautiful Côte d'Or wine country, where we tour and have lunch together at a local domaine, Chateau Rully. The tour of the castle and grounds is led by the owner, Count Raoul himself. (My only experience with a Count prior to this is Sesame Street.) Raoul is very kind and down-to-earth. He is proud of the castle's history and his family's legacy through it throughout the generations. The tour culminates with a tasting of three Rully-produced wines, along with a little appetizer, tasty gougeres (fluffy cheese pastries). Afterward we all gather in the courtyard for a picnic: meats, cheeses, pates, sausages, fruits, veggies, quiches, wine, and more! See photos to the right. ~Free time to explore Beaune and the area. There is lots to see and discover, so I'll leave that for the Tips & Discoveries page. |
PHOTOS FROM BEAUNE
PHOTOS FROM HOTEL DIEU
PHOTOS FROM MARKET DAY
CHATEAU RULLY
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